3D Printing

QIDI Plus 4 Winter Redemption Arc – Removing Back Panel and SSR Check Update

Introduction

Yesterday I heard back from QIDI Tech support regarding the issues I've been facing with my QIDI Plus 4 3D printer. I want to start by thanking everyone who responded to my post yesterday regardeless of the tone of the response. I appreciate the concern and harmony in the community. I also want to apologize for any confusion caused by my previous posts. I understand that my initial posts may have caused some alarm, and I want to clarify that my intention was to share my experience and raise awareness about potential safety concerns with the QIDI Plus 4. I did not intend to spread fear or misinformation, and as such I have removed by previous post and also provided images of the back panel removal and SSR check process.

The Back Panel Removal Process

I removed the back panel of the QIDI Plus 4 to access the Solid State Relay (SSR) board and inspect it for any signs of damage or overheating. The process was straightforward, requiring only a few tools and careful handling to avoid damaging any components. Here are the steps I followed to remove the back panel:

1. Power Off and Unplug: Before starting, I powered off the printer and unplugged it from the power source to ensure safety.
2. Remove the Screws: Using an Allen key, I removed the screws holding the back panel in place.
3. Gently Pull the Panel: With the screws removed, I gently pulled the back panel away from the printer to expose the internal components.
4. Inspect the SSR Board: Once the panel was removed, I carefully inspected the main board for any signs of discoloration, burning, or damage.
5. Remove SSR Cover and Check: I removed the SSR cover and checked the SSR board for any visible signs of overheating or damage.
6. Reassemble the Printer: After inspecting the SSR board, I reassembled the printer by carefully replacing the SSR cover, back panel and securing it with their respective screws.

The SSR Check Results

After inspecting the SSR board, I found no visible signs of damage or discoloration. However there is still a lingering smell of burnt plastic which I have reported to QIDI Tech support back on October 11, 2024 however, I'm not able to determine which component is causing the smell. I will keep you updated on any further developments.

Conclusion

I want to thank the community for their support and understanding as I navigate these issues with my QIDI Plus 4. I will continue to provide updates on my progress and any further actions I take to address the safety concerns and usability issues with the printer.

QIDI Plus 4 SSR Issues and Request for Replacement or Refund

Introduction

I purchased the QIDI Plus 4 3D printer from their official website on September 24, 2024 and received it on September 30, 2024. I was excited to upgrade from my Ender 3 Pro and explore the new features and capabilities of the QIDI Plus 4. I've printed primarily PLA with some PETG and TPU on the Ender 3 Pro and was looking forward to the enhanced printing experience with the QIDI Plus 4.However on October 11, 2024, I encountered a burning smell coming from the printer which seemed to be originating from underneath the poop duct. I immediately turned off the printer and unplugged it to prevent any further damage. I contacted QIDI Tech support and heard back from them a few days later.

In my eagerness and wanting to get back to printing, I side-stepped the issue and continued printing letting support know that the smell had dissipated. However, on November 1, the Plus 4 ran into an issue with the extruder not heating at all. I contacted support again have been waiting for a response since then.

The Primary Issue

Burning Smell

The burning smell issue and potential safety risks associated with the QIDI Plus 4 have raised significant concerns. After investigating online forums and user-reported issues, I discovered a PSA that highlighted serious safety flaws with the printer’s Solid State Relay (SSR) board responsible for the chamber heater. A video posted on YouTube by a concerned user, along with a stream by Grant from 3D Musketeers, indicated that the chamber heater and SSR board were prone to overheating due to design flaws and potential voltage mismatches.

Specifically, users reported the SSR board drawing more power than its rated capacity, which in some cases exceeded 500 watts, causing discoloration and burning on components around the heater’s coils. These findings suggest that the printer could pose a fire hazard if left unaddressed, especially for users on 120-volt systems where incorrect configurations reportedly result in excess current through the SSR board​

Secondary Issue

Extruder Heating Failure

The extruder heating failure on November 1, 2024, further compounds the safety concerns and usability issues with the QIDI Plus 4. The inability to heat the extruder prevents the printer from functioning correctly, rendering it unusable for its intended purpose. The sudden failure of a critical component like the extruder raises questions about the printer’s reliability and long-term performance. Given the safety risks associated with the SSR board and the extruder heating failure, it is evident that the QIDI Plus 4 has significant design or manufacturing flaws that need to be addressed promptly.

The Request

Replacement or Refund

Given the safety concerns and the printer’s inability to function properly, I am going to be requesting a replacement or a refund for the QIDI Plus 4. The issues encountered, including the burning smell and extruder heating failure, indicate a fundamental flaw in the printer’s design or manufacturing process. As a customer, I expect a reliable and safe product that meets the advertised specifications and quality standards. The safety risks associated with the SSR board and the potential for fire hazards are unacceptable, and I cannot continue using the printer in its current state.

QIDI Plus 4 Bed Mesh Correction Process

Introduction

Upgrading from the Ender 3 Pro to the QIDI Plus 4 was an exciting step forward, but it introduced me to a new component of 3D printing technology. Having never used Fluidd or Automatic Bed Leveling (ABL) before, I knew I had to experiment. The transition from manually leveling a print bed to utilizing these advanced tools posed a change, albeit a welcomed one. After several calibration attempts, adjustments, and refinements, I achieved an acceptable variance in the range of the bed mesh. In this article, I’ll walk you through the step-by-step process that transformed my bed mesh from highly uneven to leveled.

The Initial Bed Mesh Reading

Upon starting the first calibration with Fluidd, the bed mesh data was clear—the bed was far from level. The range between the highest and lowest points was 4.5341, with the lower end at -2.6816 and the highest at 2.0525. This much variance was causing severe print issues, including poor adhesion and inconsistent first layers.

Step 1: First Adjustments and Hex Nut Corrections

I started by focusing on the front right and back right corners, the highest points on the bed. My first instinct was to loosen these hex nuts to bring the bed down in these areas. After running the ABL calibration, the mesh improved slightly, but the range was still significant, increasing slightly to 4.6741.

Noticing the small improvement but the persistent issue, I realized I needed to focus on the back left corner, which was too low. I tightened this hex nut to raise that section of the bed.

Step 2: Incremental Tightening and Loosening

With small adjustments to the hex nuts, I saw a real difference. Using a methodical approach, I turned each hex nut 25 degrees at a time:

• I tightened the back right nut by four 25-degree turns to bring down the higher side.
• I then loosened the back left hex nut by two 25-degree turns to raise the lower corner.

These incremental adjustments began to close the gap, reducing the range between the high and low points and creating a more even bed. The bed mesh range was now at 1.5309—a significant improvement from where I started.

Step 3: Fine-Tuning the Bed Level

After each adjustment, I recalibrated the bed using Fluidd’s automatic bed leveling tool. The mesh had become much more balanced, but there was still room for improvement. I continued making small changes:

• I tightened the front left hex nut slightly to lower the high points.
• I continued loosening the back left hex nut to gradually raise the back left edge.

After each adjustment, I recalibrated and checked the bed mesh results to see how the bed was leveling out.

Step 4: Achieving a Bed Mesh Range Under 0.5

After multiple rounds of precise tightening and loosening, the bed mesh finally reached a balanced state with a range of 0.3913. The highest point on the bed was 1.1743, while the lowest was -0.5825. This marked a significant improvement from where I started, bringing the bed to an acceptable level. With a range under 0.5, the bed was now flat enough to provide a stable surface for consistent, high-quality prints.

Conclusion

By methodically tightening the hex nuts using a socket wrench with a 15 mm hex socket—R for tightening and L for loosening—and utilizing Fluidd’s automatic bed leveling tool to calibrate and check the bed mesh, I was able to greatly improve the levelness of my print bed. Achieving a balanced mesh allows for a consistent first layer, solving many of the adhesion and printing issues I had encountered earlier. Though the process requires time and attention, fine-tuning the bed level is essential for successful prints when using ABL technology. With patience and persistence, anyone can achieve a perfectly leveled bed mesh on their 3D printer.